Embark on an unforgettable journey along the iconic Bernina Express, soaking in the awe-inspiring landscapes it traverses. The route takes you through some of the world's most stunning scenery, immersing you in the natural beauty of the region.
As we ventured along the Smuggler's Trail, we marveled at the absence of border control personnel. Our last day of walking proved to be a tranquil experience, with the mountains seemingly all to ourselves. In the distance, a few children delighted in picking wild strawberries while the gentle melody of cowbells resonated across the valley. The transition from Switzerland to Italy was so idyllic and serene that it was difficult to fathom the intense formality usually associated with crossing international borders.
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As the temperature rose, we replenished our water bottles with refreshing and crisp mountain water from a nearby spout, once used by customs officials to prevent the proliferation of smuggling activities, notably involving wine.
As we made our way across the unmarked border, we noticed a sign reminding us to have our passports ready and nothing to declare. Despite being fully prepared, there was no need for inspection as we continued our hike undisturbed. The seamless transition between EU and non-EU territories went by unnoticed, disregarding the presence of a majestic hawk hovering above, unless of course, it was a remarkably camouflaged Swiss drone. With Italy lying just ahead, tantalizing us with its picturesque vineyards and tempting gelatos, our adventure on the Bernina Express was reaching its climax.
The exhilarating journey unfolded as I joined a group of trailblazing hikers embarking on the inaugural departure of a new Ramblers' holiday. Our week-long trek would take us across the majestic Alps, providing us with a tantalizing taste of the awe-inspiring Bernina Express and the breathtaking landscape it traverses. With each step, we were immersed in a world of natural beauty and engineering marvel.
The Bernina Express, a remarkable train route in Switzerland, stands out among the Swiss tradition of operating charming railways along steep slopes. This extraordinary line starts from Chur and ascends the Albula Pass, passing by St Moritz and venturing into the breathtaking glacier-adorned wilderness at Ospizio Bernina before descending to Tirano, Italy. Spanning a distance of 122 kilometers between Thusis and Tirano, this route boasts an impressive 196 bridges and 55 tunnels, earning it the distinction of being recognized as a World Heritage Site by Unesco.
The Bernina Express shares an elite status with the iconic Darjeeling mountain railway in India, showcasing its value and allure. By traversing this picturesque railway, travelers can immerse themselves in stunning landscapes, including awe-inspiring views of the UNESCO-recognized world heritage route. Embarking on the Bernina Express promises an unforgettable journey filled with breathtaking panoramas and memorable experiences.
The journey on the Albula Pass was nothing short of magical. Leaving behind the bustling city of Chur, we found ourselves switching to a vibrant red narrow-gauge train that seemed to burst out of the station with the energy of a farm dog. As we traversed through stunning meadows and orchards, it felt as if the train was playfully chasing its own tail.
What made this experience truly remarkable was the transformation as we ventured deeper into the valley. The train, now resembling a nimble mountain goat, rattled cheerfully across viaducts that spanned above the pristine Albula river. It was an awe-inspiring sight, with dramatic chasms and ravines emerging and disappearing alongside and below us.
Being surrounded by such breathtaking natural wonders made the Albula Pass route an absolute delight for any traveler. The minty-fresh aroma of the river combined with the exhilarating clatter of the train created an atmosphere that was both invigorating and soothing.
As we embarked on the Bernina Express, the atmosphere shifted along with the passengers. Gone were the pale faces and briefcases that characterized the hustle and bustle of everyday life. In their place, we found a diverse group of individuals who shared a common passion for adventure. Although I must admit, at that point, I still considered myself among the fair-skinned travelers.
Our fellow explorers hailed from various backgrounds, ranging from engineering to mathematics. A vibrant blend of ages, spanning from approximately 40 to 75, added a rich tapestry of experiences. Among the seasoned travelers, Margaret from Scotland stood out, having embarked on an incredible 23 holidays with the company. It was during her tenth adventure that she crossed paths with her husband, who accompanied us on this particular journey. And leading our expedition was Paul, an enthusiastic guide exuding boundless energy and a zest for life.
Embarking on this excursion, we were immediately struck by the breathtaking landscapes that unfolded outside our windows. The Bernina Express, renowned for its picturesque route through the Swiss Alps, offered an unforgettable sensory experience. As we ventured deeper into this captivating journey, we couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation, knowing that each passing moment would reveal hidden gems and awe-inspiring vistas.
Discover lesser-known rail journeys
As we disembarked the train at Filisur to embark on the first leg of our hike to Bergün, we couldn't help but be inspired by the incredible fitness of our guide. The initial climb was demanding, the trail winding, and the weather scorching hot. However, amidst the challenge, we were treated to the delightful sight of spotted orchids and viper’s bugloss gracing the path, offering a brief respite from the arduous ascent.
Although we rarely caught a glimpse of the railway itself, a series of information panels generously shared anecdotes from its earliest days, dating back 125 years. These telling tales recounted the extreme conditions faced by the courageous builders, as they constructed tunnels in the mountains to gain altitude. In some instances, the locomotive's smoke and steam were so dense that the train drivers resorted to using brooms to assess their movement within the tunnels. The brooms would brush against the tunnel walls, offering insights into their speed and sometimes even verifying if they were moving at all.
Bergün, a picturesque village nestled in a valley of lush hay meadows, instantly captivated me. The charming 16th-century frescoed houses that dotted the landscape resembled speckled eggs in a carefully crafted basket. It was evident that this traditional community, with its farming families tending to vegetable plots and window boxes, held steadfast beliefs in both cattle and God.
As I meandered through the village, the timeless tolling of the 12th-century church's clock resonated, marking the passing quarter-hours. In this idyllic setting, the sounds of trickling water from plentiful drinking-water-troughs reverberated more frequently than the rumble of cars down the main street. Bergün's tranquility was indeed a welcome respite for the weary traveler.
If you, like me, yearn for a serene escape, I highly recommend immersing yourself in the enchanting sights and sounds of Bergün. With its preserved architectural beauty and strong sense of community, it serves as a testament to the enduring traditions of the region.
Exploring the charming old town of Bergün marked the beginning of our second day's walk. Compared to the previous day, the terrain became less challenging and more gently sloping, allowing us to appreciate the stunning scenery even more. As we strolled along, the trains crisscrossed our path, adding an element of excitement as they darted in and out of tunnels and emerged from viaducts both above and below us. It was like a game of whack-a-mole, keeping us entertained throughout the journey.
An added convenience was the train's service of transporting our luggage to the next destination, akin to impeccably dressed butlers in their distinctive red uniforms. This proved to be a blessing for some members of our group who found the previous day's trek more strenuous. With the weight off our backs, we could fully immerse ourselves in the experience and enjoy the mesmerizing landscapes that unfolded at every turn.
During our expedition, we encountered the magnificent 5km Albula tunnel, a remarkable feat of engineering constructed in 1903 by a workforce of 1300 Italian laborers. Sadly, 21 lives were lost as they tirelessly worked their way through the mountain, progressing at a remarkable rate of three meters per day. This tunnel not only facilitated access to the awe-inspiring high Alps for individuals who were previously unable to afford such an experience but also showcased extraordinary visionary craftsmanship.
The unprecedented commitment to railway investment was evident in the parallel construction of a new tunnel beside the Albula tunnel. Employing a team of 90 dedicated professionals, this tunnel is currently being built, forging ahead at an impressive rate of 50 meters per day, all without any fatalities. Witnessing this governmental initiative to fortify railway infrastructure was uplifting, as it not only serves as a vital transportation link but also prioritizes the preservation of our delicate environment, overshadowing the destructive alternative of constructing a road.
The Landwasser Viaduct, a stunning train route, offers breathtaking views as it carries passengers through the picturesque Albula tunnel and into the beautiful Engadin valley. At an elevation of 1,700 meters, the charming resort town of Pontresina awaits, serving as the halfway point of our week-long adventure. Here, surrounded by majestic mountains and with complimentary cable cars at our disposal, our rest day turned into an exhilarating exploration of the region.
One highlight of our day was the "Panorama Way" suggested by our guide, Paul. This well-marked trail traversed the iconic Muottas Muragl, revealing panoramic vistas of the entire Engadin and the sun-kissed peaks of the northern mountains.
Pontresina, a more humble alternative to nearby St Moritz, offers a captivating experience for travelers in search of a less extravagant setting.
Prior to reaching Pontresina, the Alps presented a mixture of gentle slopes and moderate inclines. However, as we ascended to higher altitudes, the terrain progressively became more savage and unforgiving. The Bernina Express accompanied us on this journey, effortlessly carrying us from Pontresina to the pinnacle of Ospizio Bernina, situated at an impressive elevation of 2,253m. As we embarked on this leg of our adventure, a group of exuberant Japanese tourists joined us, their childlike enthusiasm evident as the marvelous sight of the first glacier came into view.
Have you ever wondered why Switzerland is known for its happiness? Well, one reason might be the awe-inspiring landscapes that exist in this remarkable country. From the Ospizio area, where the footpath and railway coexist to ensure safety in an intimidating environment, you'll find a land that, while barren and treeless, still manages to captivate with its rugged beauty.
During our journey, we experienced the austere nature of the surroundings, interrupted only by delicate pink alpenroses that dotted the landscape. Walking along the gravelly shores of Lago Bianco, we felt a sense of tranquility before embarking on the descent towards Italy. On our way, we stumbled upon Sassal Mason, a place where traditional "crot" igloo-shaped cellars stood proudly alongside a sturdy mountain-hut, designed to withstand the harshest storms.
Taking a moment to rest at the café terrace of the mountain-hut, we were greeted by an incredible view of the Palü Glacier. Its appearance resembled a tender milk pudding, with a wrinkled skin, gently weeping melt-water tears. This sight reminded us of the power and beauty contained within nature's creations.
Switzerland's happiness may be a combination of their stunning landscapes and the ability to appreciate and coexist harmoniously within such challenging environments. Exploring places like these allows us to immerse ourselves in the wonders of nature, finding peace and solace amidst the awe-inspiring beauty that surrounds us.
Lake Bianco
After descending from Sassal Mason, our journey continued on foot, embracing the charm of the Alp Grüm region. As we made our way down the winding path, we were captivated by the breathtaking views of Cavaglia, a picturesque village nestled in the valley below. With a sudden shift in language and ambiance, the announcements, station names, and even the conversations around us transformed into the melodious tones of Swiss Italian.
We soon noticed an intriguing transformation in the nature of our surroundings. Unlike the northern side of the Alps where the train maintained a certain distance from the villages, it now morphed into an intimate part of the local community. With a gentle pace, it traversed through the heart of villages, meandering along main streets, and gracefully crossing bustling village squares. This provided an opportunity for fellow travelers to meticulously capture its magnificent presence, creating lasting memories.
Alp Grüm
As the final day of our journey approached, we retraced our steps briefly, making our way up the valley wall. Ahead of us lay the Smuggler's Trail, where we were about to cross the almost invisible border. We had made a pact amongst ourselves that there would be nothing to declare to the authorities.
However, on our descent towards the bustling valley floor, surrounded by vineyards and crisscrossed by roads, I couldn't help but realize that I did indeed have something to declare. I had experienced a week of magnificent walking, accompanied by wonderful company, across the breathtaking European landscape. I felt a deep sense of satisfaction from completing this journey, knowing that my body had been pushed to its limits. And, I must admit, I had developed an infatuation with a vibrant red train that had captured my heart along the way.
Throughout our expedition, the Bernina Express had been our steadfast companion, offering stunning panoramic views of snow-capped peaks, charming alpine villages, and crystal-clear lakes. Its striking appearance became iconic against the backdrop of our adventure, leaving an indelible impression on my memory.
With each passing day, our excitement grew, fueled by the anticipation of indulging in mouthwatering pasta dishes paired with a glass of exquisite wine. Our senses were heightened, not only by the remarkable landscapes we encountered but also by the promise of culinary delights that awaited us at the end of our trek.