The Fascination of Papua New Guinea

Today, I want to take you to a country that is one of the most remote in the world. In Papua New Guinea, many parts of the country remain completely untouched: the jungle is dense, men hunt with spears, and people live in huts made of palm leaves. A real expedition awaits you here...

Before I introduce you to Papua New Guinea in more detail, I must say one thing upfront: If you decide to visit this island, forget about lounging on the beach and romantic dinners in hotels with ocean views. Papua New Guinea is only for true explorers and those eager to engage with thrilling cultures, awe-inspiring nature, mystical rites, and primitive living. I will take you on an exciting journey to the other side of the world.

Papua New Guinea, officially abbreviated as PNG, is an independent state located north of Australia. However, the western half of the island, Western New Guinea, belongs to Indonesia.

Note:

Check your vaccinations before departure! A comprehensive travel pharmacy is a must.

In addition, there are numerous small islands in the north of the country that stretch out to the Fiji Islands. How many inhabited and uninhabited islands belong to Papua New Guinea is not exactly known.

Papua New Guinea got its name from Portuguese sailors: the ship's crew called the island 'Ilha dos Papuas', which translates to 'Island of the Curly-Haired'. Since the plants and the people on the island reminded the Portuguese explorers of Africa, specifically Guinea, they named the country Papua New Guinea in the early 16th century. The most widely spoken language in Papua New Guinea is Tok Pisin, an English-based creole, but English, Hiri Motu, and various other languages are also common depending on the region. The colonial period has left its marks on the country, and the British influence is still occasionally noticeable. Papua New Guinea has been independent since 1975, currently governed by Prime Minister Peter O'Neill in a parliamentary monarchy.

The capital of Papua New Guinea is Port Moresby, located on the southeastern coast of the country. Other important cities include Lae in the northeast and Arawa on the autonomous island of Bougainville. While you can find some hotels and urban life similar to that of other Indonesian countries here, 90% of the population of Papua New Guinea still lives in rural areas, specifically in the dense jungle.

Even though Papua New Guinea is very close to Indonesia, a budget backpacker tour like those in Southeast Asia is not what this trip offers. Affordable hostels are almost non-existent here. As mentioned before, most parts of the country remain completely untouched and are only known to the indigenous people, with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs advising against self-guided tours. If you plan to travel, it makes sense to join a group and explore the country with experienced guides. A round trip is exciting but not a walk in the park - yet this is precisely what makes the fascination of this country.

Port Moresby is by far the largest city on the island. A botanical garden, the National Parliament, and the National Museum invite you to explore. For nature lovers, the Wairiata National Park is the right destination. Port Moresby is also home to the country's largest airport, Jackson International Airport.

From here, the popular Kodoka Trail begins. The path takes you from the capital over the Owen Stanley Range to the town of Kodoka. The 96-kilometer-long trail leads you through the jungle of Papua New Guinea, allowing you to experience nature with its 700 different species of birds and over 300 types of orchids up close.

Getting to Papua New Guinea: From Germany, you can fly via Singapore, Manila, Hong Kong, Cebu, Denpasar, or Tokyo. In Australia, you can fly from Cairns or Brisbane.

The route follows the same path that the Japanese took during World War II from the northern coast to Port Moresby. The Kodoka Trail will take you past many old Japanese warplanes or Australian tanks, immersing you in the diverse history of the country.

Overall, you should plan about a week for the Kodoka Trail - to complete the entire route, a certain level of fitness is needed, as it goes through rough terrain. Important: Do not set out alone; definitely hire a guide! While most people in Papua New Guinea are very friendly and accommodating, there have been isolated incidents of assaults on tourists in the jungle in recent years.

Other popular hiking trails include the Kopianga Lake-Oksapmin Trail, which takes about three to four days and leads you through the highlands and the Strickland River Valley. For those seeking a bit more adrenaline, the Black Cat Track is the right choice. The path leads you from Wau to Salamaua. Again, do not venture out alone; a guide is essential here!

The Sepik is the longest river in Papua New Guinea. Like a large, brown snake, it winds through the jungle and empties into the Pacific Ocean. You should start your upstream tour on the Sepik in Wewak (which is serviced daily from Port Moresby), where you can stock up on plenty of supplies and continue your journey by bus to Pagwi. In Pagwi, your adventure finally begins on the water.

With a motorized canoe, you will now navigate upstream. In the middle part of the river, you will come upon small villages. Since the water level can vary significantly during the rainy season, the inhabitants build their houses on stilts. The largest and most important house in each village is the Tamban (spirit house). This sacred place is where many ceremonies take place and can only be visited by the men of the village. However, for some female tourists, the tribal leaders may make an exception and allow a brief visit. The Tamban is intricately decorated with sculptures, masks, and carvings. All of Papua New Guinea is known for its detailed wood art, especially the villages in the middle and lower parts of the Sepik.

In the heart of the highlands, Goroka hosts a Sing-Sing festival between various tribes every September. Up to 150 tribes come together here for three days. If you have the chance to experience the Sing-Sing festival, you should not miss it! As the name suggests, a Sing-Sing is a singing festival. Here you can admire the different villages in their traditional attire. The elaborately crafted skirts, handmade jewelry, and wigs are still worn on festive days and are not just costumes for travelers. In everyday life, jeans and T-shirts are common. Many villages represent ancient stories with their costumes that tourists might not recognize.

The Mudmen of the Asaro Clan from the Easter Highlands reenact their victory over a hostile tribe at the Sing-Sing, using their costumes. According to a legend, men from a rival tribe in the mountains attacked the Asaro Clan in the valley to seize their fertile land, killing many women, children, and men. However, some villagers were able to hide in the mud of the Asaro River and stayed there all night. When they tried to leave quietly the next morning, they were covered head to toe in gray mud. When their enemies saw them, they believed that spirits were coming to punish them for their raid. Since then, the Asaro Clan celebrates their victory at the Sing-Sing festival in Goroka.

The Sing-Sing festival is not a tourist attraction but was organized by the Australian government in 1957 to encourage peaceful coexistence among the tribes, as Papua New Guinea is still considered one of the most violent countries in the world. A saying goes, as long as people are dancing, they are not killing. The many different tribes still believe in different myths, legends, witch stories, and speak over 800 languages across the island. With so many opinions and languages, conflicts can arise.

According to ethnologists, it cannot be denied that bloody acts of revenge between individual villages still occur today. The rainforest dwellers of Papua New Guinea were long considered cannibals. I promise you: the days of headhunters are over; you need not worry about that. I believe that one should not be deterred by the country's history and should see the beauty of the land with their own eyes. Respect their culture, after all, you wish the same from your counterparts!

That Papua New Guinea is not a typical vacation destination with sun, beach, and sea should be clear to you after this brief report. Here, you can expect a country full of history and authenticity, like you may not discover in any other country in the world, and instead, experience a true jungle adventure. If this is what attracts you to the country, then go for it.