Well-known artist Frank Gehry was so fascinated by New Zealand's capital, Wellington, that he proposed to construct an art gallery reminiscent of the Bilbao-style. This project, had it been accepted, would have revolutionized the city's infamous gusty lakefront. Despite its deteriorating buildings that dated back to the 1970s, Wellington needed a dose of architectural renovation, but sadly Gehry's proposal didn't materialize. Besides the Parliament Building, locally known as the Beehive, there's an uncanny feeling that every corner of the city could be taken apart, transported and rebuilt somewhere less noteworthy – an eccentric yet popular approach in New Zealand.
First-time travelers often experience Wellington as a gloomy, wind-whipped city perched beside the Southern Ocean. Yet, there's more to Wellington than meets the eyes. The city strives hard to shed its image of bland conservatism, transforming into a hub of indulgence. With a remarkable density of bars, restaurants and cafés that surpasses even New York, it has become a mecca for epicures. Furthermore, it has repositioned itself as the core of the New Zealand film industry propelled by the popularity of the hobbits.
The decision of Peter Jackson, the director of Lord of the Rings, to make this city his home base has ensured Wellington's place on the movie map. This has earned the city the affectionate moniker 'Welliwood', making it a city that may have rejected Gehry's grand architectural vision but staked its claim in the spheres of gastronomy and cinematography.
Exploring Accommodations in Wellington
MERCURE WELLINGTON
Preferably situated at 345 The Terrace and reachable at 00 64 4 3859829 or via its official website, www.mercure.com, Mercure Wellington is not only associated with the famed architect who also designed the InterContinental but also makes for an affordable choice with slightly simpler amenities. A true mark of economy with class!
THE WELLESLEY
For those in search of a daintier accompanying for their stay, look no further than The Wellesley. The hotel, situated at 2-8 Maginnity Street (for inquiries: 00 64 4 474 1308), provides a unique charm right in Wellington's business hub. You can preview and book it at www.thewellesley.co.nz. The boutique hotel exudes a neo-Georgian flair and invites its guests to enjoy an 'English' restaurant, a sophisticated cocktail bar and an entertaining games room. A fine blend of heritage and elegance in the heart of the city!
If you're extending your visit to include Auckland as well, there are several excellent accommodations to consider. Auckland boasts a wide variety of hotel options for all types of travellers. For those who prefer a more opulent stay, you can book top rated hotels in Auckland on tophotels.com. Alternatively, if your definition of a perfect vacation includes stunning ocean views and easy access to the beach, choosing one from the numerous Auckland Beach hotels would be a great choice!
Where to eat out in Wellington
A generous exchange rate means that even the best Wellington restaurant will not break the bank.
ANISE 161-163 Cuba Street (00 64 4 381 2212). The nouvelle-Thai Anise is currently turning heads; chef Paul Blain trained under David Thompson (who runs Nahm in London).
BOULCOTT STREET BISTRO 99 Boulcott Street (00 64 4 499 4199). Across town, Boulcott Street Bistro restaurant and winebar is something of a Wellington institution for its traditional fare in a pleasant, clubby atmosphere.
BOUQUET GARNI RESTAURANT & BAR 100 Willis Street (00 64 4 499 1095). Another firm favourite housed in a chic little building hedged in by office blocks. The bar is a great evening rendezvous. Vim Rao is Wellington's reigning queen of cuisine. Born in Lenggong, a small town on the west coast of Malaysia, Rao came to New Zealand 20 years ago and settled in Wellington, where she trained as a chef. 'Food is in my blood,' she says. 'My mother was my first teacher.' Rao's first business venture, a small Malaysian eatery called Kopi, is still going strong. Since then she has added Bouquet Garni Restaurant & Bar (housed in a restored Victorian building) and Rouge; a stylish restaurant and cocktail bar. She is in the novel position of having helped to transform Wellington's rather conservative eating scene - and is reaping the rewards. A glance at the Bouquet Garni menu reveals its owner's commitment to modern New Zealand cuisine, with a strong French bias (pork, lamb's brain, tuna and sweetmeats all figure). The wine list is encyclopaedic.
LOGAN-BROWN RESTAURANT & BAR Corner of Cuba and Vivian Street (00 64 4 801 5114; www.loganbrown.co.nz). Logan-Brown is without doubt the poshest restaurant in Wellington, but don't be surprised if Alister Brown, its co-owner and much-awarded chef, picks up the phone to take your booking. Despite the opulent setting in an 1920s bank building (the main restaurant and bar is housed in an octagonal room decorated with Corinthian columns), Brown likes to keep things as unstuffy as possible. Logan-Brown Restaurant & Bar attracts Wellington's political movers and shakers, as well as a younger, groovier crowd, attracted by the cocktails, wine by the glass and platters of bar-food, plus live jazz. A similarly laid-back attitude is evident in the menu, which consists of classic dishes like the signature paua ravioli - local abalone served with fresh basil, coriander and lime beurre blanc.
CAFES
As the caffeine capital of New Zealand, Wellington has no shortage of good cafés - with devoted followings.
CAFFE L'AFFARE 27 College Street (00 64 4 385 9748;www.laffare.co.nz). This is a golden oldie. Try the pesto-and-mozzarella rolls with crispy bacon.
EMPORIO COFFEE 90 Abel Smith Street(00 64 4 382 8116;www.emporio.co.nz). For a mid-morning heart starter, Emporio Coffee serves 'healthy and interesting' food.
PRAVDA CAFE 107 Customhouse Quay (00 64 4 801 8858;www.pravadacafe.co.nz). For a slice of Cold War nostalgia, drop into Pravda Café, which, as well as coffee, breakfast and snacks, has an impressive bistro menu.
DRINKING
BEAU MONDE LOUNGE BAR 82 Tory Street (00 64 4 384 1177). A cosy upstairs bar that specialises in Australian, New Zealand and French wines and has a good cocktail list, stylish bar snacks and live music on Thursdays.
MATTERHORN 106 Cuba Street (00 64 4 384 3359;www.matterhorn.co.nz). This is favoured by late-night bohemian types, and serves good coffee, cocktails, wines and European bar food.
THE JET BAR 36 Courtenay Place (00 64 4 803 3324;www.jetbar.co.nz) attracts fashionable girls and advertising types. It's stylish, flirty and desperately hip.
PUBS
Given the bar scene, it's easy to overlook Wellington's pubs, some of which are pretty good. Two of the best are Hotel Bristol (131-133 Cuba Street; 00 64 4 385 1147) and The Courtenay Arms (26-32 Allen Street, Courtney Place; 00 64 4 385 6908). The latter is ideal for anyone feeling homesick - it has a good selection of British and Irish beers on tap. Beer aficionados will enjoy The Malthouse (48 Courtenay Place; 00 64 4 802 5484), which serves more than 30 types of naturally fermented New Zealand beer. It also serves inexpensive meals, such as venison pie and pork fillet.
What to see in Wellington
CITY CENTRE Wellington's city centre is compact and easy to cover on foot, with most of the major attractions within a two km radius. The heart of the city stretches from the train station in the north to Cambridge and Kent Terraces at the eastern end of Courtenay Place, taking in the waterfront along the way, while the central business district runs along The Terrace and Lambton Quay. The latter is also the principal shopping thoroughfare. The main districts for eating, drinking and entertainment are Courtenay Place, Cuba Street, Willis Street, and down to the waterfront at Queens Wharf.
CIVIC SQUARE AND THE WATERFRONT The thoroughly modern Civic Square, behind the visitor centre, is a good place to start your sightseeing before making the short walk to the waterfront and Wellington's star attraction, the Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa). A popular venue for outdoor events, Civic Square was revamped in the early 1990s by Wellington architect Ian Athfield and is full of interesting sculptures, with a couple of buildings worth a quick visit.
MUSEUM OF NEW ZEALAND About 500 metres east of the bridge, on Cable Street, is the Museum of New Zealand or Te Papa Tongarewa, Wellington's star attraction and the country's first national museum. A major project occupying a purpose-built five-storey building right on the waterfront, the museum opened in early 1998. You'll need at least half a day to explore this celebration of New Zealand's people, land and cultures, all brought to life with ambitious state-of-the-art technology aimed at adults and children.
THE BOTANIC GARDENS AND CABLE CAR Wellington's Botanic Gardens form a huge swathe of green on rolling hills high above the city to the west and make for a pleasant hour or two's distraction. There are main entrances on Glenmore Street and Upland Road, but the best way to get there is via the short yet scenic cable-car ride to Kelburn. There's a lookout at the top, just inside the Botanic Gardens, offering spectacular views over the city, brought into focus by coin-operated binoculars. The highlight of the gardens and their most visited section is the Lady Norwood Rose Garden. The fragrant garden blooms throughout the summer, with 300 varieties of roses laid out in a formal wheel shape around a fountain.
WELLINGTON HARBOUR It's impossible to come to Wellington and ignore the lure of the water. Wellington Harbour and its reliable winds offer excellent sailing experiences. Another option is to take the ferry to Somes Island, which has long held spiritual significance to Maori and has magnificent views across the harbour.
Navigating Your Way to Wellington
For those considering international travel to New Zealand, the main transportation hub resides at Auckland International Airport located at Mangere. Just 24km south of the city, you can find more information by visiting their official site at www.auckland-airport.co.nz. Also worth noting, you'll find additional international airports accessible in Wellington and Harewood, which is near Christchurch.
If you're planning to fly from the UK, you have two fantastic options to consider. First up, Air New Zealand operates flights daily and can be reached for enquiries on 0800 028 4149 or you can find more information at www.airnewzealand.co.uk. British Airways also provides excellent service, and can be contacted at 0844 493 0787 or visited at www.britishairways.com.