At the end of July, according to 'the books', the harvesting of traditionally farmed mussels, those of the bottom culture, officially began. Although in Zeeland are already at it earlier, mind you. Of course. There, the first Zeeland mussels are harvested as early as June. Early, yes. But those from Zeeland's waters are still the best. Where to eat them? Almost everywhere in the province but definitely here (and be sure to have an oyster while you are there): 11 x mussels in Zeeland.
1. Katoen, Goes
In Goes - whose G is replaced by the Zeelanders with an H that must come from deep - the former chef of Antwerp brasserie Appelmans opened one of the nicest, or at least most modern brasserie-hotels in Zeeland in 2015. The idea: Appelmans' (good) food complemented by luxury bedrooms in Goes' former city archive. And so it happened. There is a large terrace flanked by a wall of plants in terracotta pots on a cosy, somewhat hidden square. Inside, a large bar is central to the establishment, surrounded by round tables - the best idea for those wishing to dine with a larger party - and both high and low tables for two or four. Through an open window in the back, the chefs slide uncomplicated Dutch dishes into the restaurant on a conveyor belt. Mussels, among others. And coarse sandwiches with shrimp croquettes, sandwiches, a classic twelve o'clock (soup, bread, smoked meat, salmon or cheese and a croquette), tenderloin steak, cod and goulash. But also homemade lemonade and Katoens IJsemmer: fresh soft ice cream with a carnival of garnishes. Bleekveld 9, Goes.
2. De Visbar, Domburg
A favourite of many and a classic in the province. And for good reason. Start your evening with bubbles and oysters from the 'front garden' and especially let the waiter bring you a tasting. Oh, and if you are not in the mood for mussels: De Visbar serves the most delicious sushi. Ooststraat 6, Domburg.
3. Westkaap, Westkapelle
Right between Domburg and Westkapelle, officially Westkapelle, it is good snacking with sea views at Westkaap. Speciality? Mussels, of course. But only if they are really good, large enough and in good taste, otherwise they are taken off the menu without a second thought. In that case, a piece of apple pie by the fireplace will do just as well. Zeedijk 7, Westkapelle.
4. The Oyster Factory, Yerseke
On the dyke of Yerseke in Zeeland stands a small fortress titled De Oesterij. A 'fortress' since the family business - which has been doing its oyster thing for more than a hundred years - became so popular that it rolled from one expansion into another. That started with a business processing oysters, mussels and lobster from the Wadden and Oosterschelde estuaries. Then came a tasting room in a simple glass extension. For oysters, of course, but mussels, lobster soup and whatever the sea produces seasonally also end up on the menu: a concise menu to lick your fingers off. Havendijk 12, Yerseke.
5. Restaurant Meliefste, Wolphaartsdijk
In Wolphaartsdijk at the marina with stunning views over the Veerse Meer is restaurant Meliefste. And at Restaurant Meliefste cooks Thijs Meliefste, one of the best-loved chefs among many food connoisseurs in the Netherlands and Belgium. He did an internship at three-star restaurant The Fat Duck in London, cooked as sous chef at Het Gebaar in Antwerp (one Michelin star) and at the Katseveer in Wilhelminadorp (also one Michelin star). Then it was time for his own business. Guests are more than warmly welcomed, if not by Thijs himself, then by his partner and hostess Anuschka. That cordial tone is continued for the rest of your stay: no pinched bottoms or unnecessary expensive fuss at Meliefste. Not really for mussels (although Thijs will know how to make something fantastic out of those too), but for an evening (or afternoon) of fine dining. Wolphaartsdijkseveer 1, Wolphaartsdijk.
6. Mussel restaurant de Oude Haven, Philippine
Restaurant de Oude Haven in Philippine has been run by the same family for 48 years, a family with a solid tradition of cooking mussels. The mussels here are served according to an 'age-old' family recipe and you can taste it. Tasty. The restaurant looks cosy and authentic. Nice. Waterpoortstraat 3, Philippine.
7. Oysters & Soja, Bruinisse
In this case, the name says it all. At Oysters & Soja you eat oysters. With soya. Asian style, in your bright purple chair at a table with crisp white linen and a fabulous view over De Grevelingen in the marina at Bruinisse. Sounds fancy but make no mistake; flip-flops and windswept heads are just as welcome here. Chef Marco Verspeten, who used to cook neatly in the same spot at restaurant De Etalage, nowadays doesn't care about existing conventions and cooks after his Asian roots. Zeeland specialities with local, sustainable and organic products but in oriental atmospheres. It's a bit of everything. Famous? The oysters with soya vinaigrette. What else. Jachthavenweg 61A, Bruinisse.
8. Pure C, Cadzand
According to chef Sergio Herman, Cadzand is the Ibiza of the North Sea. I can understand that: Cadzand is becoming increasingly popular with restaurant Pure C on the second floor of the Strandhotel as trendsetter. Lounging, cocktails, hip music, good-looking people, sun, sea and you've got that ultimate Ibiza vibe, that's how it is. That, and good, very good food. Compared to the former Oud Sluis, Herman has a somewhat more accessible menu served at Pure C. He by no means does this alone: at the daily helm is young chef Syrco Bakker, who was not only trained by Herman, but was previously apprenticed to Jonnie Boer and Gordon Ramsay. The menu? That can be short: pure foodporn. Take your time, go for lunch so you experience everything even better and can linger until sunset. Order as many courses as your budget allows - you can always roll into a bedroom at the Strandhotel. Boulevard de Wielingen 49, Cadzand-Bad.
9. Oesterput 14, Yerseke
In Zeeland, Yerseke is the place where all the good things from the sea are brought to land. Not surprisingly, there is more than one mussel restaurant here. Perhaps the name Oesterput 14 does not immediately ring any bells... could be right. Not so long ago, Edwin Ossewaarde's restaurant was still called Zee/Land/Zilt and back then star chef Edwin Vinke (of De Kromme Watergang) was at the helm. From day 1, Zee/Land/Zilt was a (commercial) success but further discussion arose. Under the new name, and with a different chef at the helm, you may still visit the restaurant that literally stands above Yerseke's oyster pits. You eat your mussels there naturally, in white wine or in cream with garlic. The latter may not be the best option if you need to go out afterwards, or the whole company just joins in, because it is delicious. Havendijk 21, Yerseke.
10. Breskens aan Zee, Breskens
Beach pavilion Breskens Aan Zee was voted the best beach pavilion in Zeeland as recently as 2015, and it is just such a place: a perfect address to stop at after a day hanging out on the beach for an uncomplicated bite to eat and a drink. What's more, Breskens aan Zee is open all year round, 7 days a week. Promenade 2, Breskens.
